Arima Onsen Tocen Goshobo

The perennial tradeoff in ryokan hotels is getting the right balance of seclusion and accessibility. Tocen Goshoboh, however, manages to get away with a pretty impressive combination. It’s only twenty minutes’ drive from the Kobe rail station, which means relatively easy access from most any of Japan’s major cities — but its position in the mountain village of Arima, one of the oldest hot springs in the country, means that the stresses of city life, once you’re within its walls, are little more than a memory.

A ryokan in one form or another has stood on this spot for centuries, though in its current incarnation it only dates back a little less than a hundred years. Goshoboh is no nostalgia trip, though — even at mid-century, its owners kept pace with developments in modern architecture, and the result is a ryokan that’s quietly contemporary, blending traditional tatami interiors with some of the finer currents in Western residential design.

Along with the hotel’s design credentials, the healing waters of the Arima springs are well known across Japan, and they probably account for their fair share of the business. So too does the cuisine: it’s worth booking in advance to get yourself a seat at Goshoboh’s table.

How to get there: Complimentary transfers from/to Arima Onsen train station are available upon request.