Pest-Buda Hotel - Design & Boutique

Life on the Buda side of the Danube can feel like coming unstuck in time. You have some elevation in these parts, which means extraordinary views of the river, the fabulously ornate Matthias Church, and the painstakingly reconstructed Buda Castle complex, plus plenty of wooded hiking trails on the way up. Not too shabby a hilltop, we must say, a sentiment seemingly shared by the folks behind Baltazár — they’ve opened a sister hotel and bistro, Pest-Buda, within spitting distance of these historic heavyweights. Then again, when you situate your boutique on the site of Hungary’s oldest hotel, opened in 1696, you’ve got a claim to the “historic heavyweight” moniker yourself.

Designers Tibor Somlai and Géza Ipacs imbued the interiors with radiant warmth in terms of both palette — rose, gold, ecru, umber — and material, balancing rustic Hungarian oak flooring with luxe down duvet covers, area rugs, and the building’s original Baroque brick roof. Mid-century elements should prove a draw for those with a taste for the finer things: vintage suitcases, leather-accented seating, retro Smeg minifridges, and copper lamps with Edison bulbs create an aura of retro bemusement. Pack lightly; local laws prohibit the installation of an elevator in so old a building.

Mornings and evenings, the bistro’s terrace offers downright magical views of Hess András Square’s elaborate ashlar stonework and patinated sculpture. The kitchen is authentically Hungarian, plating hearty beef goulash and chicken paprikash against a homey backdrop of graceful banquettes and arched bookshelves. Take your meal — and explore the all-Hungarian wine list — outside, weather permitting, plotting your next move in the shade of the cheery awning. Pest’s thrumming ruin bars are just half an hour away by tram, but we have a feeling you’d prefer the scenic route over the Chain Bridge at sunset.